We went back to Kyrgyzstan and met a gang of “fat ass sheeps”. We call them that way because on their back sides, they have additional “fat sacks” like camels have.Beautiful Kyrgyzstan.We did an interesting hike on which we depend on mostly cow trails. They did a pretty good job preparing a trail through the bushes and making the slopes a bit more walkable. Here is our hike on Komoot.When I was about to take off my shoes for a river crossing, a nice local came with his horse and brought me across the river.We installed the magical box. It was the lid of Racki’s old gemmy box which she has had since she was a child. The magical box provides electricity and looks nice.And of course we played a lot of Spirit Island. My favorite board game.And we tried to rescue this little fellow. He was suffering under the changing temperatures etc.Next stop was the famous Song Kul.We found a nice camp spot next to the water, did our laundry and our other daily routines.Dino had a good look at the lake.♥️Which was sometimes calm and sometimes pretty stormy.On a stormy day two young German guys on motorcycles came along and we had a good talk.After the Song Kul we went down the mountains again.We drove a whole lot of dirt roads in the direction of Osh.One day we parked in the line of a crazy thunderstorm. Maybe it was the most powerful one I’ve ever witnessed. We had to very quickly close Rosinante’s roof and the whole car was shaking like crazy. In the photo you see the big power lines pushed by the storm in a horizontal position.Close to Osh, we met with Simon and planned our route on the famous Pamir Highway.Some cleaning.And riding a donkey.These donkeys. We did see them a lot ridden by elderly men and that looked like they were in a cartoon because the riders feet are nearly touching the ground.I did admire how the locals were packing their cars but this one was pretty close to flipping over. In the photo he had to go up a bumpy track, the whole transporter was leaning to the left and the front axle was sometimes lifting up a bit 🙄
One of my favorite photos from Kazakhstan. But before:From Georgia, we entered Russia with our transit visa we got in Armenia. The crossing went well, but very bureaucratic: the language barrier made the process of filling the customs papers for our car more difficult and so we needed three trials until everything was fine. Some travelers got pretty crazy in this process. After the border we went to a rock climbing area right next to the main road. The approach to the climbing routes was crazy steep and the routes themselves were super difficult. I was not very happy in that area because I did not feel very good about being in Russia.We took the direct route to Kazakhstan and visited some Buddhist temples. But all of them were closed.The military checkpoints in Russia were very friendly and we made a lot of jokes about mainly football and German beer. Only one Russian soldier was grumpy but not more than the ordinary Georgian 😁 But still I did not feel so good about being in Russia because of the relationship between the German and Russian government and the war in Ukraine. In the end it was like so often: regardless of the governments, the people are super friendly and helpful. But I still thought that I would not like to meet a Russian soldier who’s friend or family member got killed in Ukraine and now had to deal with us, German tourists.This was a floating bridge which was constantly pushed to the side by the river. On one end of it they installed a couple of outboard motors to keep it in place.We crossed the border to Kazakhstan and entered the steppe!The temperature rose to more than 40 degrees Celsius and sometimes we liked to continue driving just to have the comfort of Rosinante’s air conditioning.Driving through the steppe was a crazy experience. Sometimes there was no turn, bend or corner for hundreds of kilometers. Driving became pretty boring because the distances were huge. My favorite thing to watch were the camels.One day we witnessed the funeral of my grandfather who had died in Germany when we were still in Armenia. Although participating online was better than not participating at all, it was weird.After so much heat in the steppe we wanted to have a swim and went to Aktau, a coastal coty at the Caspian Sea. There we went to an old amusement park and took a ride in a carousel. These carousels and attractions! I guess some would use them as a test of courage.After having dinner we met a group of Kazakh celebrating a birthday and had a great time with them dancing to all kinds of music.The stone formations in the Ustyurt National Preserve area were amazing! They look like the back of Godzilla sleeping in the steppe.There were some plants. But only very little ones.And these rabbits.Normally we do a lot of hiking, climbing and physical activities but in the heat of the steppe there was not much to do. So we decided to just take a walk around and run back.While running, we scared a little gerbil-like animal which immediately run to a hole in the ground to take cover. Unfortunately his ass was a bit to big and he got stuck in the hole 🥳 He tried hard to push himself in but did not succeed. He tried to go reverse but had no chance. So we helped him a bit and gave him a push.The vastness of our first offroad track in the steppe.Sometimes it was like a video game in which you have to pick the best track.A lot, lot, lot of dust! I loved it and it always reminds me on Mad Max.Bit the dust could get pretty nasty on and inside of Rosinante.The first version of our automatic washing machine.
After more than three months in the ski resort and organizing a lot of stuff in Tbilisi, we made it back into Rosinante and the nature life and went to Armenia!It was awesome to run around in T-shirts again and discover new places.We found super nice camp spots.And the scenery in Armenia was very diverse.Like always we had different temporary dog friends. Some were more funny than others.Waterfalls!And more waterfalls!These stones looked very exotic. They are called Symphony of Stones and I’d say they are one of the biggest tourist attractions in Armenia.Most of the time we searched for our own hiking tours and found very nice ones.On that river crossing, Racki and I tried different approaches. Both of us got wet feet. Who would have guessed?This monastery in Tatev looked very nice. Next to the monastery we took one of the longest (distance between two pillars) cable cars in the world.And the birds in that region were huge and majestic!Here are the hikes we did on Komoot: Angel Canyon Wings For Life Run Jermuk Waterfall Shaki Waterfall and Zorats Karer (ancient tomb memorial)unexpected hiking tour, Tatev monastery, Devil’s bridge, Hermitage, Wings of Tatev (cable car) Azat valley, Symphony of stones and Geghard monastery Parz Lake roundShort hike down to the river (Lastiver)And we went back into the climbing life! It was awesome! After a couple of days we were fit again and did weeks of climbing!This was my favorite route. 38m long and 6b grade. It was awesome. But before it was awesome, it was a frustrating experience for me.During that time my grandfather died in Germany and that was another special experience for me. He was quite old and had his illnesses and so it was no surprise but still it caught me. Mostly it remembered me at the time when my parents and other grandparents died and this kicked me really out of balance. I got kind of stressed, partly pissed and it was not the easiest time for Racki and me. I guess I could not really communicate my imbalance or did not understand what was going on with me which made me kind of pull back which maybe confused Racki who always loves to do something together. But in the end I mostly found my balance again and we got relaxed again.In Armenia we met so many lovely people! It was unbelievable. Even compared with other regions of great hospitality this was so amazing. This guy (a natural reserve ranger) let us stay in the reserve area, explained a lot of interesting stuff to us and gifted us a lot of grilled lamb. Which I ate because I’m not as strictly vegetarian as Racki.These guys took us with them to a hot spring bath and we had a good time together. And there were a lot more of these lovely Armenian people.Our diesel heater showed some malfunction and to be able to maintain and repair it without putting the cabin off our pickup we realized one of my dream improvements for Rosinante: we installed the heater from the inside. In Yerevan these nice guys laser cut a custom stainless steel plate for us and in the end they wanted no payment at all.This is the custom cut plate. In Germany we maybe could have ordered one online but in countries like Armenia this is not so easy or even impossible. The tasks of the car life.The sexy pig-batman-ass hole in which we fit the heater.We cleaned the heater and afterwards it worked flawlessly again. I’d say it’s normal that diesel heaters get dirty when one uses them a lot and so I thought about it since I started living in a car. In the end it was not difficult to dismantle, clean it and put it back together. The needed spare parts we had with us. And so we learned to handle one of the big car life topics.Some classic site seeing in Yerevan.We did none of the famous volcano off-road tours because the weather was too cloudy and there was still too much snow on the volcanos.But still we did some off-roading to explore nice places.And some more tricky off-roading.And nice roads. And in the end when crossing the border back to Georgia we normally would have had to pay 90€ driving penalties but the officials decided to let us leave without paying.