Back in Kazakhstan: Nauryz Festival, Rosinante repairs, and friends

We made it back to Kazakhstan and of course our first stop was at Gleb’s place to meet our friend and reunite with Rosinante and our plants Georgia and Pizza. Especially Georgia grew a lot with the help of Gleb’s mother.

And for that, she had earned the colorful magnet we got for her in Malaysia, which fit very well into her collection, even more.

After that, we met Arni at his new, big, and nice home.

The house was very nice and some walls were made the Kazakh way: absolute perfection.

We lived in his big yard and started preparing Rosinante for continuing our car life.

First, we had Rosinante’s bushings in the lower suspension arms in the front changed again: cheap, crappy Kyrgyz bushings out, new expensive German bushings in. Because the bushings were pressed, we couldn’t do it on our own in a proper way.

Some teeth cleaning for us and for Racki hours of drilling: all new and shiny.

And we went collecting shirts that we had designed for our birthdays. Racki got “Climber’s Life” in the style of the Stranger Things logo and I got “From another point of view” inspired by the nice arts cafe which we had visited in Malaysia.

We went to the famous Atakent Mall parking lot where a lot of foreign campers meet during the season. But this time we were alone. At least until during the night a German couple (Kasia and Michael) crawled to the parking lot with their car, having serious problems with it. Kasia even had to push the car for the last few meters.

The next day, it turned out that they had crawled all the way back to Kazakhstan from China because nobody there could help them. We connected them with Arni, who had a quite similar car. It turned out that he could indeed help them a lot. Not fixing everything, but enabling them to drive properly again to start sorting out things.

And even more interesting for us, they told us that it was now possible to drive through China on your own, only doing the border crossings in a group. And even the price got a lot cheaper than what we had heard about.

Our idea at that point was going back west to Georgia or Turkey, but now a new seed had been planted.

My birthday with good friends at a nice pizza place and awesome presents.

As always in spring, there was Nauryz in Kazakhstan.

It was nice as always: people got active after the winter. A nice feeling of spring.

We met again with Maria, our good friend, and had a good time at the festival …

… and in the bars of Almaty.

At Arni’s place, we did a lot of stuff for Rosinante. And we had a lot of fun doing so because Arni had a lot of ideas and was always motivated to try new stuff. Combined with his 3D printer, we made a lot of things possible.

Fixing our light in Arni’s workshop.

Getting a present for fixes on the way.

After some days, Harry, a friend of Arni, came to visit him and he helped us as well. Here they are fixing the hinge of our cabin hatch.

Unfortunately, my phone had a severe accident and was almost completely unusable. So the search for a repair shop or a new phone started… Not easy because everything is cheaper in Germany …

Months ago, one of Rosinante’s rear shock absorbers had started leaking. These shock absorbers were special ones from a German manufacturer called Toyota Nestle, and when I emailed them, they told us that two new absorbers would be almost 1400 Euros! Plus shipping and customs to get them to Almaty, of course.

The previous owner had bought these absorbers and I was never really happy with them, so we finally decided in Malaysia to order new shock absorbers and leaf springs for Rosinante from an Ironman shop in Almaty. Even after all these months, the biggest available shock absorbers didn’t make their way to the shop, so we decided to take one size smaller.

We ordered some static lifts to Arni’s place and together we did a good job swapping the shock absorbers and leaf springs.

We installed an additional intake for our diesel heater and a switch so that we could switch between heating up the air from outside or inside or both.

We rearranged the button to switch the charging of our living battery with Rosinante’s alternator.

And Arni made us a very special and beautiful new emblem for Rosinante!

Lovely and unique. 3D scanned, modeled, and made with love.

One evening, we met Gleb, his girlfriend, and his mother together with Maria to thank them again for taking care of our cars when we weren’t in Kazakhstan.

Like every year, Racki and I attended the Wings for Life run. We decided to join a bigger event in a small stadium in Almaty because of the rain.

And again we were not alone: Arni, another traveler (not in the photo), and our friend Abubakar in Tajikistan (running in Tajikistan) joined us. Together we did our best! Racki and I did almost 12 km each.

At Arni’s place, we did several barbecues. Our good friends Merel and Leon came back to Almaty as well, and Kasia and Michael joined us too. Together we had a nice evening with Merel performing her new songs and everybody singing some karaoke.

Paola and Igel, whom we got to know last year in Almaty, visited Arni’s home as well. They had to sort out some topics with their unique camper truck called Big Blue and were funny and easygoing as always.

Another evening, we went to an electro music party. Normally, I like parties like this, but the circumstances were… odd. Racki, Merel, and Leon went for a short evening walk in the park at the Atakent Mall parking lot and I went into Rosinante to make some music. Just days ago, I had started to make music with my laptop (and Bitwig) again and really liked it a lot and was very happy to really take some time to get going and enjoy making music.

After a few minutes, Racki came into Rosinante with tickets for that electro party and I was quite irritated. But she was so happy to surprise me that I just had to go. So I went with them. But the timing was… unfortunate. Racki did not like that it took quite some time for me to get used to my new evening experience with hundreds of people at a concert instead of making music on my own and got irritated by that. So it was not the easiest party, but still I liked the surprise more and more as we did a lot of dancing.

Sport rock climbing in Tonsai and Railay in Thailand - a climber's Paradise!"

We finally made it to Tonsai and Railay! The climbing rocks looked amazing from a distance already!

And I remembered being on Tonsai twelve years ago and thinking how nice it would be to climb these rocks like all the climbers were doing.

Tonsai and Railay are two very famous tourist and climbing areas in Thailand. Both are only reachable via boat and located in two distinct bays. But it is possible to walk between these two bays on a jungle track in the backcountry, which we didn’t do, or by the seaside.

See the climbing areas on thecrag.com.

The tourist village on Railay was absolutely touristy with all the bars, marijuana shops, accommodations, and restaurants next to each other.

A lot of longtail boats waiting for passengers to Tonsai or the next city.

The beach and one of the iconic climbing crags of Tonsai.

The beach of Tonsai. Tonsai has an interesting story: first, all the small hippie-style bars and accommodations had developed next to the beach as usual. At some point, investors bought that area and had everything moved about 400 meters back, away from the beach. Around the now empty area next to the beach, they built a wall to prevent tourists and locals from entering that area and to build big resorts. Twelve years ago, that was the situation: the beach, behind the beach the walled-in area, and behind that the bars and accommodations. Walking between the beach and the rest was only possible beside the walled-in area.

When we came to Tonsai, the situation had changed a bit: the wall was still there and a few high-end accommodations had been built, but not too many, and a lot of the cheap hippie bars, etc., that had been moved away had closed during COVID times and never recovered.

It was a special mixture of low-budget tourists, hippie attitudes, locals, climbers, and high-end resort tourists.

Our first bungalow at Tonsai Basecamp, a well-known climbers’ accommodation. As usual, electricity was only available from evening to morning because it all had to be generated, which came with the noise of the generators.

It was an ok accommodation, but Basecamp had seen better days, for sure. A lot of things were pretty run down, and for us, the atmosphere felt quite low.

Monkeys on the Tonsai wall.

Graffiti and paintings on the Tonsai wall.

One of my favorites.

The hippie-style accommodations, not too crowded.

A boulder cave.

We only had to wait once to climb a route, and it only got crowded when guided climbing groups used an area.

It was beautiful, and some areas were only climbable during low tide.

The friends we had met before at Spirit Mountain had brought us our climbing gear, and together we did a lot of climbs.

One time, we got caught by heavy tropical rain in a multi-pitch area and got trapped until it finished.

At the hippie bars.

The scenery was amazing.

At the main beach of Railay, it got crowded with beach tourists right next to the climbing routes.

The famous penis cave. Jokes and funny things were pretty much all around Tonsai and Railay.

The view from one of the caves.

Our friends were visited by another friend, and together we explored the caves, did some climbing, and hung around.

One night, we went to a bar on Railay where a very good guitar player gave a concert, and we got a cocktail for free.

Racki got a new bikini, and we enjoyed our time.

We found a cheaper bungalow at Mama Chicken, the famous restaurant and low-budget accommodation. It was about 12 Euros per night. It was not possible to book or find it online.

After over ten years of wearing one of my favorite t-shirts, it was completely falling apart and time to say goodbye.

This route was one of my favorites of all time!

It looked and felt amazing to climb, and the view was incredible. Partly it was like climbing a dragon’s mouth.

One day, the climbing went pretty late.

Just for the photo: I couldn’t do more than one move on that overhang.

A fire show on Tonsai.

Hanging around with other climbing friends we had met.

And then it was time to leave for Krabi airport and fly back to Kazakhstan.