Category: offroading

The Pamir Highway: Peak Lenin Base Camp, Qarokul Lake and Bartang Valley (August 2024)

We reunited with Simon and his car Otto and together we started our Pamir Highway adventure!
We bought a whole lot of stuff in the supermarket and filled both of Rosinante’s Diesel tanks.
We started in Osh and our first stop was the Basecamp of Peak Lenin. This mountain is very famous because a lot of people say it’s a pretty easy to climb seventh thousand plus mountain.
Racki and I thought about doing it as well at some point of our time in the stan countries but in the end we didn’t do it because it takes two up to three weeks. I love mountains but going back and forth the same routes (for acclimating) for two weeks… I didn’t feel like I wanted to do it although I’d love to reach a 7000m summit.
The area around the base camp was very beautiful and we did a nice hike with a beautiful view.
Unfortunately I had a strong diarrhoea and had to shit a lot and everywhere. So I did not do any big hikes.
These little and sometimes not so little fellows were everywhere and made a lot of squeaking noises.
We continued to the border to Tajikistan and on the way we tried to find some medicine for my diarrhoea. The pharmacies were all closed but we met nice travelers who gifted me some medicine.
We had organized the permit for the Pamir region and everything else in advance and so the border crossing went very well.
The road between the borders was pretty offroady (no photo) and we were wondering how people with vans and motorhomes were doing this. And there were actually living people between the borders.
On the other side of the border the real Pamir adventure began!
The landscapes were super beautiful and we found a very nice camp spot at the Karakul Lake at 4000 meters altitude.
It was crazy. The light and feeling in that area felt very special. I can’t really say why or how.
Racki and I did a nice hike up on the summit of the Urtabuz mountain at 5047 meters. It was a super easy hike.
We met some living friends on the way up.
And some dead. Actually Racki carried this skull, about 4 kg, almost to the summit and the whole way down again to our camp to gift it to Simon who was repairing his exhaust pipe which broke the day before.
The view from the summit was amazing! On 5000 meters  surrounded by 7000 to 8000 meter high mountains and perfect weather.
After a few days we continued our way into the famous Bartang Valley.
Our plan was to enter it from the east for about 40 km and then return because the tracks in that valley were crazy and we had heard a lot about crazy river crossings and cars getting stuck for days.
But once we had reached a certain point we decided to just continue and try to drive through the whole valley because the weather was perfect and had been like that for a long time.
So we guessed that the water level of the river would be pretty low and the potentially muddy parts would be ok.
The scenery and colors were amazing.
The track was ok and driving fast on the super dusty smooth parts was a lot of fun.
We made it easily over the most offroady part, at a small mountain pass. Only at one point, a pretty narrow, bumpy crossing of a stream on the mountain pass, I thought that maybe I would regret trying to pass this valley.
On iOverlander and in the chat groups travelers mentioned primarily three tough sections.
We made it through the two river crossings without a problem. As we had guessed the water level and current were pretty low. But still it felt pretty adventurous.
In the last tough section a land slide had made the track pretty narrow and depending on the water level you had to guess where the track was. Take a look at the photos and reports on iOverlander. When we arrived there, we could see almost the whole track and everything went well.
But this wrack next to the landslide reminded us how it can go.
We found a nice camp spot to relax after the adventurous part of the Bartang Valley.
The views were awesome.
There were some oases in the rocky terrain.
And the switching between rocks, gravel and the green was super interesting.
We always had some sweet presents with us.
In one oasis village we met a group of super friendly villagers. One of them spoke very good English and invited us to spend some time with them.
It was very interesting. We talked a lot about their lives in that remote village and about life in Tajikistan in general.
After they showed us their home, they wanted to see our homes and got very interested in how everything works and how we lived. We gifted them some clothes, medicine and bandages and it felt good to help them just a bit.
We continued our way in the Bartang Valley and found a nice camp spot close to a river to relax and stayed for a bit longer.
There were just a few cars taking the only off-road track through the valley. One day a solo backpacker from New Zealand joined us and together we had a great time with interesting conversations.
We had big respect for how our visitor was traveling: she was going alone through the valleys and crossing mountain ridges which were sometimes over 5000 meters high and was passing glaciers as well with pretty used equipment.
Our visitor got a seat in Otto and together we continued our journey through the valley which became more easy to drive and at some point we got back on a real dirt road.
This bridge looked adventurous but we did not have to cross it.
We did a nice and easy hike to a remote village which was only accessible by foot. On the way we met other travelers.
The village was very beautiful and located next to a lake. We learned about their lives there, how they were making bread and that they try to live in an ecological way.

Back to Kyrgyzstan, Song Kul, riding horses and donkeys and the magical box (August 2024)

We went back to Kyrgyzstan and met a gang of “fat ass sheeps”. We call them that way because on their back sides, they have additional “fat sacks” like camels have.
Beautiful Kyrgyzstan.
We did an interesting hike on which we depend on mostly cow trails. They did a pretty good job preparing a trail through the bushes and making the slopes a bit more walkable.
Here is our hike on Komoot.
When I was about to take off my shoes for a river crossing, a nice local came with his horse and brought me across the river.
We installed the magical box. It was the lid of Racki’s old gemmy box which she has had since she was a child. The magical box provides electricity and looks nice.
And of course we played a lot of Spirit Island. My favorite board game.
And we tried to rescue this little fellow. He was suffering under the changing temperatures etc.
Next stop was the famous Song Kul.
We found a nice camp spot next to the water, did our laundry and our other daily routines.
Dino had a good look at the lake.
♥️
Which was sometimes calm and sometimes pretty stormy.
On a stormy day two young German guys on motorcycles came along and we had a good talk.
After the Song Kul we went down the mountains again.
We drove a whole lot of dirt roads in the direction of Osh.
One day we parked in the line of a crazy thunderstorm. Maybe it was the most powerful one I’ve ever witnessed. We had to very quickly close Rosinante’s roof and the whole car was shaking like crazy. In the photo you see the big power lines pushed by the storm in a horizontal position.
Close to Osh, we met with Simon and planned our route on the famous Pamir Highway.
Some cleaning.
And riding a donkey.
These donkeys. We did see them a lot ridden by elderly men and that looked like they were in a cartoon because the riders feet are nearly touching the ground.
I did admire how the locals were packing their cars but this one was pretty close to flipping over. In the photo he had to go up a bumpy track, the whole transporter was leaning to the left and the front axle was sometimes lifting up a bit 🙄

Nature, climbing and the Kolfest festival in Kyrgyzstan (July 2024)

We passed the border from Uzbekistan to Kyrgyzstan near Osh and entered the beautiful Kyrgyz mountains.
A misunderstanding lead us to this off-road track which is one of the two main connections from the south west part to the rest of Kyrgyzstan.
And as always the locals take it with their limousines, small transporters with horses and cows on it, by foot and all other possible ways.
We loved the Kyrgyz mountain views.
Very diverse.
Beautiful.
😍
And the people were all friendly, helpful and nice.
I loved especially the straw transports.
South of Bishkek we went to a climbing area.
Found a camp spot right next to the climbing wall.
Did some professional leveling of Rosinante.
Met nice climbers from France and Kyrgyzstan and had a great time.
We climbed pretty tough routes and learned a lot.
After that we head east to the Issyk Kul. The biggest lake in Kyrgyzstan and the eighth-deepest lake in the world and the eleventh-largest lake in the world by volume.
We found the location of the Kolfest we were looking forward to join for the last months.
Visited the Fairytale Canyon right next to it.
And then the festival started with an awesome mixture of traditional folk and electronic music.
It was beautiful!
We met a lot of happy and nice people.
Danced.
Jumped.
And had a great time.