Tag: Kazakhstan

Winter came, our heater didn’t like it, and we managed to let go of some heavy weights (November, December 2024)

Winter was coming and with it came the first snow. So we left the Tamgaly Tas climbing area and moved to the city of Almaty.
After months of climbing, we started the city life and went to a regulars’ table of German immigrants (no photo) in a Paulaner restaurant and drank a lot of wheat beer.
Had a bonfire with friends.
And made new animal friends.
Did some hiking with our good friend Maria and her Kund (“Kind” (which means child) + “Hund” (which means dog) in the early winter weather.
After some days, we went back to Kyrgyzstan where we did a lot of beautiful winter hikes.
The weather was cold but beautiful!
And sometimes pretty white.
Our diesel heater stopped working from time to time and that really pissed me off. I guess in about three years of living in a car, I learned a lot. How to do things and how to deal with things. But still a not working diesel heater when temperatures went down to about -10 degrees Celsius was not easy to cope with. At some point I talked to Racki if it made still sense to live in Rosinante in winter. My mood went down a lot.
We cleaned the heater, which is necessary from time to time, but it didn’t help.
Still I had to crouch under the car mostly every morning and sometimes during the day to somehow get the fuel line working again. It was not nice to handle the metal clamps of the fuel line with these temperatures, rearranging the fuel line because that somehow helped get the heater running again. And then doing the same the next day because it did not help for a long time.
We thought about staying in a hostel but did not want to spend the money. We tried a lot to optimize everything.
At some point we took a big water bottle, filled it up from Rosinante’s auxiliary tank and had the heater suck the diesel from that bottle. This somehow worked better than having it pumping the diesel from Rosinante’s main tank.
The diesel seemed to be liquid and in a good condition but still in the end, the final solution was pretty easy and obvious: the diesel got too viscous in the cold.
After we put some anti gel additive in the tank, the heater was working very reliably.
I felt much better once we had solved that issue after two weeks of unrewarding trying and failing but still I felt very exhausted and stressed. It was a hard time for Racki and me because I did not feel much like talking a lot and felt kind of depressed.
It felt like there was always a heavy weight on me and us.
But we never fought or accused each other and so we managed to let go of the weight.
In a shop for handmade stuff we bought an original Kyrgyz carpet for a friend and I found this little fellow: Boris.
The glint wine season started.
In Karakul we had the service on our snowboards done to have them ready for ski touring once there would be enough snow. Our transportation method for our snowboards turned out to be pretty stupid. Back in Gudauri, we had put them into a strong plastic bag and had put them on Rosinante’s roof. The result of the weather, changing temperatures and humidity caused a lot of rust on the edges of them. But the friendly guys from a ski service did their best and a very good job.
We bought some slides in a supermarket and had a lot of fun sliding down the slopes.
We managed to find a fast and satisfying routine for living in the cold temperatures in Rosinante and it felt better and everything started to feel more easy for me again.
Drying of washed clothes still worked.
On our winter hikes there was a lot to see.
And we had wonderful views around the Issyk Kul. One of the biggest lakes in the world.
On the way to Bishkek, we found these.
And because most of our hiking trail was covered with ice, we tried to slide down the trail while sitting on stones. I did not work that much.

Three months of climbing paradise with friends in Kazakhstan: Tamgaly-Tas (September to November 2024)

We made it back to the climbing area we had visited months ago. This time the weather was perfect. Last time it was way too hot. The entrance fee was still beer and cola.
We did a whole lot of climbing.
And learned a lot, lot, lot.
Sarah and Wouter, the “Star Troopies” (travelers we had met before several times in different countries) joined us and tried rock climbing for the first time.
It was super awesome and they did super good. Although they had no own climbing shoes. Racki’s shoes were good for Sarah, but Wouter suffered a lot in my way to small shoes.
Climbing on the wall.
Climbing on another wall.
Climbing on an overhanging wall.
We had a whole lot of fun climbing,
hanging around,
and relaxing.
Slowly, slowly it was becoming Autumn.
Simon visited us and although he was afraid of heights, he made his first rock climbing experience as well.
Maria, who we had met before in Murghab on the Pamir and at the border from Tajikistan to Kyrgyzstan, and her “half-human-half-dog dog” Vedi and another friend came as well and together we had a great time.
At one weekend there was a big climbing festival organized by the biggest “climbing company” Skala in the climbing area. Unfortunately the weather on that weekend was not very good. But nevertheless a whole lot of climbers joined the festival.
One day Kali and Didi, travelers from the Netherlands, came to the climbing area and we climbed a lot together, shared stories and experiences.
Didi brought trad (traditional climbing) gear and let me try it. It was my first time using that stuff and it was very interesting. In the sport/ rock climbing the bolts in the wall where you attach your robe are already set. In trad climbing you have to set these points by your own. To do so, you carry a lot of fancy and expensive gear around.
And we had water melon with the cheapest vodka we could find. It tasted like it had back when I was sixteen.
Sarah and Wouter came back and this time Wouter brought his own, brand new climbing shoes! It’s always nice to see if people love the rock climbing.
Again we had a great time at and in front of the rock.
Halloween!
Our last days of climbing on one of the last warm and sunny days of the year.
After the weather got too cold, we drove to Almaty and met a whole lot of our new friends we had met in the last couple of months.

An awesome rock climbing area, canyon, rhino, dino, friends and more in Kazakhstan (July, August 2024)

We crossed the border from Kyrgyzstan to Kazakhstan and went to the Charyn Canyon. It’s a very beautiful canyon.
And it was pretty touristic. There were a lot of other tourists which was not often the case in the stan countries.
Here is our walk around the canyon on Komoot.
After the canyon we went to Almaty and were pretty surprised how organized everything was there. Getting spare parts for Rosinante was super easy and a lot cheaper than in the EU. Especially in the maze of car city the super small shops are perfectly organized and there were always helpful people.
After the city we went to Tamgaly Tas, a big rock climbing area. It was so nice there!
There were almost 300 bolted routes and we climbed a lot of them.
The maximum temperature in the sun was 56 degrees Celsius and so we only climbed in the morning and evening. In between we jumped and hung around in the nice and cold river right next to the rocks and Rosinante.
We spent more than three weeks there. When we first entered, we had to pay about 8 Euros for the entry. When we went to the supermarket, we took the phone of the guard with us so that he could receive new messages. Because in the climbing area there was absolutely no signal at all. From the second visit on, we always paid our entry in beer and Cola.
Something I love about this nomadic car life: repairing stuff. It started for me because it’s often not easy to get a replacement. But now I love it.
Alien creatures.
Every week we went to a nearby lake to relax and have an internet signal. We met Simon a friend of Whoopie who became our friend in Georgia.
In Almaty we had stickers for Rosinante printed. A dino for me.
And a Rhino for Racki. She had a Rhino on her car Thor as well and I thought it would be nice to keep it that way now that we are traveling together in Rosinante.
After a whole lot of research we added an additional leaf spring to Rosinante’s suspension. We payed about 30€ for the work. The prices for most services  are much lower in Kazakhstan compared to EU and Georgia.
To let her carry as much as this truck 😁
Maybe a tyre upgrade as well?
In the mountains south of Almaty we met Sarah and Wouter again. We got to know them in Georgia and it was super nice to meet again, spent time together, playing Pandemic and Exploding Kittens, talking, having fun.
I love these relationships with friends we met again and again. They feel deeper and it’s nice to not talk about the same stuff again and again like we often do when we meet new people.
We wanted to go to another climb area but the road leading there was restricted to electric cars. So we did an awesome hike instead.
It was super fun.
And the views were awesome.
Here is the hike on Komoot.