In March 2025, the travel route we had in mind was: Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nepal. And after that destination unknown. We organized everything. The Carnet de Passage (special customs document for our car which is necessary to enter certain countries with an own car) and the visa. We tried to get a visa for India in Kyrgyzstan, but it was not possible. The only options left were: going to Germany and applying there in an Indian embassy or applying for an evisa online and flying to India to get the visa stamped in our passports.

Because getting the evisa stamped in our passports was not possible on the land borders and Rosinante was not used to flying, we decided to take the cheapest flight to Delhi and back to Almaty, Kazakhstan. Our ecological hearts were bleeding but we did not see another option. Later we found out , that it’s most likely possible to get an Indian visa in Tajikistan… No matter what, we made the best out of it and took a flight in the morning/ night of my birthday from Almaty to Delhi. We were tired and so we took a taxi to a park that looked nice on Google Maps. The rollercoaster/ taxi ride was a good introduction to the traffic in Delhi. WTF. We had a lot of experience with traffic in a lot of different countries and I’d say we are pretty fast and active drivers who make use of mostly everything that’s allowed or tolerated in the traffic. But this was different, special, fast and tight. Often only a few centimeters were left between the cars, trucks, busses, tuktuks, people, cows, walls etc.

The park was a good place to ease our tired minds. There, a lot of people did yoga, meditated and practiced breathing techniques. To me it felt nice that these practices were so much a part of the daily life of the Indians.

After breakfast, we did some sight seeing and I absolutely liked the style of the historical buildings.

The next method of transportation, we tried, was a tuk tuk. We got an electric one and had the most relaxed driver. After the taxi ride, that experience was very different. Less pushing. But of course vehicles, animals and humans were everywhere.

We got pretty tired and took a nap on a meadow near one of the historical buildings.

Everybody was super friendly and lovely. Several Indian groups wanted to take a selfie with us which we always find funny.

A nice home for one of the stray dogs.

One of the many tourist bazaars.

An ordinary shopping area in the old town.

Infinite small shops.

We liked the monkeys and the cows a lot.

Packed, tight corridors.

And sideways.

We decided to take a rigsha. Before we started, we showed the driver where we wanted to go because we were wondering if it wouldn’t be too far. About seven kilometers. He was fine with that.

In the car free area of old town, he pushed our rigsha through the tiniest free spots. After some kilometers he got exhausted and driving on the bigger streets of Delhi, with big trucks and busses, felt more and more adventurous. Sometimes he spoke to other locals, told them where he was going and they showed him pretty much respect for his mission. We asked if we should switch to a taxi, but he wanted to get going. In the end, we made it, our driver was happy and I felt that he was kind of proud.

In a small Buddhist temple, I did a meditation and Racki relaxed a bit. After that we had dinner and took the metro to the airport.

Goodbye Delhi after 15 hours to get our visa stamped in our passports. It was a crazy short visit, but an interesting one as well.

Back in the airport of Almaty, Racki got a super discount on Baileys (her favorite drink). A successful end of our trip.

We crossed the border from Kyrgyzstan to Kazakhstan and went to the Charyn Canyon. It’s a very beautiful canyon.

And it was pretty touristic. There were a lot of other tourists which was not often the case in the stan countries. Here is our walk around the canyon on Komoot.

After the canyon we went to Almaty and were pretty surprised how organized everything was there. Getting spare parts for Rosinante was super easy and a lot cheaper than in the EU. Especially in the maze of car city the super small shops are perfectly organized and there were always helpful people.

After the city we went to Tamgaly Tas, a big rock climbing area. It was so nice there!

There were almost 300 bolted routes and we climbed a lot of them.

The maximum temperature in the sun was 56 degrees Celsius and so we only climbed in the morning and evening. In between we jumped and hung around in the nice and cold river right next to the rocks and Rosinante.

We spent more than three weeks there. When we first entered, we had to pay about 8 Euros for the entry. When we went to the supermarket, we took the phone of the guard with us so that he could receive new messages. Because in the climbing area there was absolutely no signal at all. From the second visit on, we always paid our entry in beer and Cola.

Something I love about this nomadic car life: repairing stuff. It started for me because it’s often not easy to get a replacement. But now I love it.

Alien creatures.

Every week we went to a nearby lake to relax and have an internet signal. We met Simon a friend of Whoopie who became our friend in Georgia.

In Almaty we had stickers for Rosinante printed. A dino for me.

And a Rhino for Racki. She had a Rhino on her car Thor as well and I thought it would be nice to keep it that way now that we are traveling together in Rosinante.

After a whole lot of research we added an additional leaf spring to Rosinante’s suspension. We payed about 30€ for the work. The prices for most services  are much lower in Kazakhstan compared to EU and Georgia.

To let her carry as much as this truck 😁

Maybe a tyre upgrade as well?

In the mountains south of Almaty we met Sarah and Wouter again. We got to know them in Georgia and it was super nice to meet again, spent time together, playing Pandemic and Exploding Kittens, talking, having fun. I love these relationships with friends we met again and again. They feel deeper and it’s nice to not talk about the same stuff again and again like we often do when we meet new people.

We wanted to go to another climb area but the road leading there was restricted to electric cars. So we did an awesome hike instead.

It was super fun.

And the views were awesome. Here is the hike on Komoot.